Travel Diaries: Visiting Whitby Abbey
Nestled on the windswept cliffs overlooking the picturesque town of Whitby, Whitby Abbey is one of my favourite historical ruins to date. Not only is it home to rich history, architectural grandeur and beautiful views it is also linked to the classic gothic novel “Dracula” and various other supernatural occurrences. So when I visited in the autumn of 2023, I thought I’d snap some quick pictures of the ruin and highlight some of my favourite things to see and do there.
Dracula and the supernatural:
For literary lovers, it comes as no surprise that Whitby Abbey is famously known for it’s association with Bram Stoker's iconic novel, "Dracula." Perched high on the cliff, the abbey served as Stoker's inspiration for the setting of Count Dracula's arrival in England. And it’s easy to see why. If you’ve ever read the book you can draw exciting comparisons between the descriptions in the book and the real ruin. Particularly fun if you’re a bit of a book lover like myself.
When we visited, it was actually Friday the 13th in October, which unofficially marks “Monster Day”. We saw many people dressed in Halloween costumes and even a gothic wedding. So if you have a particular affinity for the spooky, I would definitely suggest visiting around Halloween. The gift shop was also full of Dracula and other spooky inspired gifts which I of course adored.
The abbey, like many old ruins and buildings in the UK, is rumoured to be haunted. The most famous ghost is said to be the spirit of St Hilda who founded the abbey. In “Dracula” the ghost of St. Hilda is mentioned alongside the ghost of a nun who was stoned to death after breaking her vow of chastity. As creepy as this sounds, when I was there I didn’t feel anything untoward and enjoyed my exploration in peace.
History and architecture:
For some context, Whitby Abbey was founded in the 7th century and has a rich and varied history. Originally established by the Anglo-Saxon Abbess Hilda, the abbey has witnessed the Viking invasion, the Norman Conquest, and played a crucial role in the development of early Christianity in England. However in 1539 the south of the abbey was almost completely demolished due to the dissolution of monasteries as ordered by King Henry VIII. In later years it was purchased by a wealthy and renowned family called the Cholmley’s who lived there until the 18th century. Whilst there the Cholmley’s made some impressive renovations and built the Abbey House which is still there today (the front of it at least!). Then after the 18th century it was abandoned and was left to fall into the romantic ruin it is today.
Despite being abandoned and getting battered by the British coastal weather some of the abbey’s architecture has remained for us to admire today. The abbey's architecture is predominantly Gothic in style. Creating a visual feast for history and design enthusiasts alike. The imposing ruins showcase intricate stonework, pointed arches, and soaring columns. It makes for some beautiful photographs as well as a backdrop for your holiday selfies. I particular love the archway (pictured below) that looks like a little portal to the sea.
Nature and the surrounding area:
For me, one of the most breath-taking aspects of a visit to Whitby Abbey is the panoramic view it offers of the surrounding landscape. The North Sea stretches out beneath, providing a dramatic backdrop to the ruins. From the abbey you can also look down onto the traditional seaside town of Whitby. If you have time, it’s worth taking a wonder down the very long staircase to enjoy some jet shopping or grab some fish and chips (watch out for seagulls though!).
Speaking of jet, Whitby is famous for it. There are many stores in the town selling jewellery that showcases the gothic black gemstone. Jet although stone-like in appearance is actually fossilised wood which is a common natural occurrence in Whitby and the North Yorkshire moors. You can even purchase jet in the English Heritage gift shop which is part of Whitby Abbey.
Logistics and entry:
When we travel to Whitby Abbey we always park in Whitby Abbey’s car park which is at the top of the hill. The only downside is that if you’re an English Heritage member like I am you do not get the usual free parking. Instead you have to pay at the parking machine or use the RingGo app. Entry to Whitby Abbey is currently £11 for an adult and £6.50 for a child during off-peak season which I believe is anything outside of the school holidays. Alternatively you can also sign up to an English Heritage membership that gives you unlimited access to over 400 historical sites across the UK from just £57 per adult.